ITALIAN BUCKET LIST: THE ISLAND OF SICILY
Italy continues to captivate me like no other. Imagine a country the size of New Mexico where every visit unveils something new and unique. From serene lakes to majestic mountains, sun-kissed beaches, and vibrant cities, Italy truly offers it all. What sets it apart is its remarkable cultural diversity, a legacy of its fragmented past. Italy only unified in 1861, consolidating diverse regions that still proudly preserve their distinct identities today. Ask an Italian about themselves, and you're more likely to hear "I'm Roman," "I'm Sicilian," or "I'm Venetian" than simply "I'm Italian."
My recent trip to Italy reaffirmed why it remains our top selling destination, with its endless possibilities. I make it a point to visit at least twice a year, ensuring I stay current on the best hotels, experiences, and connections with local partners, all to enhance the journey for my clients.
In May, I had the privilege of exploring Rome, the Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Sicily. You can read about my trip to Rome HERE . Sicily stood out for its burgeoning luxury travel scene, recently boosted by its appearance in the popular TV series, White Lotus. Sicily, an island comparable in size to Massachusetts, welcomed me with ten days of exploration. I started in Palermo, then traveled south via Marsala, to Sciacca, Agrigento, Noto, Syracuse, and ended in Taormina. My time in Sicily was hosted and planned by our partners, Italy My Way.
Palermo
I find that Palermo is a city you either love or not, there doesn’t seem to be much middle ground. As a lover of gritty cities with rich history, Palermo falls into my love category. During my stay, I was hosted at Rocco Forte's Villa Igiea, a splendid 19th-century villa just outside the city. Although a taxi ride away from the hustle, its art nouveau rooms with contemporary touches made it a serene oasis in a busy city.
Insider Tip: Make sure you stop at Casa Stagnitta, which makes the BEST Granita I have ever tasted.
I have seen a lot of churches in my travels, but none have astounded me more than Cattedrale Di Monreale. What makes this cathedral unique is that the walls, columns, and ceilings are adorned with over 70,000 sq feet of mosaic tiles. It is mind blowing, to say the least, I am convinced that the celebrated Italian fashion designer, Ottavio Missoni, used the columns and walls here as inspiration for his iconic zig-zag knitwear.
Food, art and history are what makes a visit to Palermo special. Here is a short video I made of my day. I learned about an incredibly inspiring photographer, Letizia Battaglia, who is famous for her photographs documenting the Mafia, she was trusted and given unprecedented access to them. Her photographs capture daily life in Sicily as well, beautiful and raw. You can see the documentary, “Shooting the Mafia”, which tells her story. She is also honored on a street art mural that honors all the most important Sicilians who helped to take down the Mafia. She passed away in 2022.
Southern Sicily
After two nights in Palermo, we started to make our way south, with stops in the ancient city of Segesta, seaside town of Trapani, then onto Marsala, famous for its wine and salt flats. All of these stops were unique and entertaining, I especially loved seeing the ancient way salt was mined from the Mediterranean Sea. Our day ended at Rocco Forte’s Verdura Golf and Spa resort, his second property on the island of Sicily. Verdura is a resort, when you arrive here, you stay here to enjoy the view of the Mediterranean, its world famous golf course, and the beautiful Spa. It’s a great stop to recharge your touring batteries when you visit Sicily.
After time in Verdura, we start our journey East, and stopped in Agrigento and Noto. Agrigento is famous for it’s ancient temples, and the history here is fascinating. If you want to spend the night, or a few days in Agrigento, I recommend two unique hotels here: The Villa Athena, and the new and unique Doric Eco Boutique Resort & Spa. We had a beautiful lunch at the Doric, where they farm their own food, olive oil, and wine…all organic.
After Agrigento, we were onto Noto, and wow, wow, wow….did I say wow? Noto is known for it’s baroque architecture, small streets, and charming stores. We stumbled upon a wedding around sunset time, and it was stunning. Staying in Noto is a must; I recommend two nights here. Noto and the surrounding area has a concentration of picturesque hilltop towns, greek ruins, and unspoiled beaches. This area gives you all the history of Rome with the same charm as the small towns on Cinque Terra.
Our hotel here was a jaw dropper, the Il San Corrado Di Noto. A Relais and Chateaux, this was once the home of Sicilian nobleman Prince Nicolaci, and you can enjoy the old mixed with the new here. There are two stunning pools (one is 1000’ long), olive groves, and the dining is superior.
There is another property here I highly recommend, Dimora delle Balze. But plan ahead as this unique and special property only has 12 rooms. Here you will enjoy a Michelin star restaurant, incredible views, a beautiful pool, and it’s location that is central to the entire area. It was once the home of a noble, surrounded by farm, and was lovingly restored by it’s current owners. Each room is unique, so you will want to make sure to select the one perfect for you. My favorite room is Clandestini, which is located in the home’s turret! This is a bucket list hotel.
NOTO, SYRACUSA, & TAORMINA
After Noto, we ventured to Syracuse, and stopped in Caltagirone, famous for it’s pottery, and in Modica, famous for it’s chocolate. Syracuse was the highlight of the trip for me. The scale of the ruins will blow your mind. And there was the most incredible art installation by sculptor Igor Mitoraj ,around the ruins that is so perfectly fit for this site, you would think they were a permanent part of the park. This installation will be in the ancient ruins of Syracuse until October, 2025. If you have ever dreamed of coming here, I would recommend visiting before the installation is gone
After a full day of touring, we visited the large island town, Ortegia. Another highlight in Sicily, this town has beautiful architecture, history, and charming narrow streets lined with artisan shops.
The last days of our trip were spent in the iconic hilltop resort town of Taormina. This town is a long time favorite of lavish Europeans, and one of the most coveted summer spots in all the world. And it’s easy to see why. Taormina dominates two grand, sweeping bays below and on the southern side, the top of Mount Etna, the European highest active volcano, often capped with snow, offering to the visitors a breathtaking, dramatic and memorable view over almost one hundred miles of Mediterranean sea.
There are two hotels here that we recommend: Grand Hotel Timeo, a Belmond Property and The San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons. The Grand Hotel Timeo is near the Teatro Greco, a much busier side of town. San Domenico is traditional, romantic, and much more peaceful than Timeo, also very different - historic monastery versus more modern Timeo.
The San Domenico has become the top pick as it is featured in the popular show, The White Lotus. The building was once a convent, making the interior unique, and has sweeping views of Mt. Etna and the ancient Greek theater. The pool is the highlight here, as are the service and rooms. Important to know: Many episodes of the show feature a beach and that is the magic of Hollywood, as the beach where the show is filmed is over 100 miles away.
The Grand Hotel Timeo is more conveniently located to town and has an incredible terrace to enjoy cocktails and sunset. It has a vibrant atmosphere, often with live music, and a great mixologist for your favorite cocktails.
The coast of Taormina boasts several beaches, of course, and you can reach it by taxi, or the fun cable car from the center of town. I recommend Lido Re Del Sole for the sandiest beach in the area, and love the Tao Beach Club ther. Whichever beach you choose, we also recommend reserving beds at a beach club so you can enjoy the services throughout the day.
Getting to Sicily
Sicily has two main airports, in Palermo and Catania, and can easily be accessed by most European cities. This historic and beautiful island is the perfect destination for families and couples alike. We recommend a minimum of 10 days if you want to explore the island, but 14 is ideal if you do not want to go at a hectic pace.